Belize is a country with a small land mass and tiny population. Its bigness lies in its abundant natural beauty – on land, on water and under the surface too.

We're about 10 minutes off the shores of San Pedro when our little six-metre boat is tied off to a big round buoy and my diving guide plops himself into the waters. I'm next. I sit backwards on the edge of the cockpit, put one hand over my mask and the other over my regulator, and fall backwards overboard. According to diving protocol I give the ok sign to the skipper, even though skippers are never looking, then deflate my vest to begin submerging. I locate my guide a few metres off, but movement below catches my attention. There's a gathering of sharks swimming around under my flippers and I am descending into the middle of their party.

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